Diario de inasiebert

Observation from March 30, 2018

In Germany, Black Grouse are critically endangered. According to NABU (Naturschutzbund Deutschland e.V./Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union), less than 1.600 female Black Grouse live in isolated areas.

In Estonia, however, the number of male Black Grouses is supposed to be up to 10.000 birds (according to our guide). To watch some of them, we went to a traditional lek site in Läänemaa Suursoo Landscape Reserve. It was an area of huge fields between woods and bogs.

We had gotten up at 5 a.m. and arrived before daybreak. It was minus 10 degrees, and the ground was frosty and partly covered in snow. We stopped on a road and watched from a great distance, staying close to our vans. About 25 male Black Grouses were already there.

They displayed their tail feathers in a fan, strutted in the arena and faced each other. Some flew short distances to fight other grouses, some left the arena, and some stayed on birch trees in the distance. The air was filled with their deep bubbling and sometimes hissing sounds. We supposed that there were more grouses around than we actually saw.

It was a unique experience! We were excited and in awe. Watching and listening to the lekking grouses while the sun was rising, no one was tired, hungry or freezing. We stayed for more than one hour, watching with binoculars and spotting scopes and taking lots of pictures. Only before leaving, we had coffee and sandwiches right there on the field. Best breakfast ever!

Observation from March 31st, 2018

On our first day of the birding vacation, the guide had asked us about the species we absolutely wanted to see. I was curious about every species that was listed as a possible observation during our trip. But my special wish was a Northern Hawk Owl which I had observed once before in Canada. He raised an eyebrow and told me that I had quite raised the bar. Only two days later I found out that he had actually never seen one himself. With his experience, I was very surprised to hear that!

So, my wish also was his very own mission. We actually saw one near the lake Veskijärv in Läänemaa Suursoo Landscape Reserve, but it was very far in the distance. We could hardly recognize it with spotting scopes. We tried to get closer, making our way through bushes and across frozen ponds, but we couldn’t get a better look. Not a very satisfactory lifer!

Another group of birdwatchers was staying at the same lodge we did. The guides knew each other well and exchanged tips about observations. A Northern Hawk Owl was supposed to be in an area we had already visited on an outing during the day.

On the next evening after dinner, we went to these fields west of Leidissoo. We tried different paths, but nothing. Sunset came near. And then, we saw it! Perching at the top of a tree, overlooking a field. Slowly, we drove closer. It didn’t bother, checking the ground for prey. I couldn’t believe our luck. And I couldn’t wait to stop. Luckily, our van had sliding doors, so we could take pictures without leaving it. While I was photographing, the owl glided down to hunt. But it came back and landed on the same spot. It was such a magnificent sight!

We became bolder and left the vans. The owl still didn’t care, even though we were only about 50 meters away. It watched the ground and went for another hunt, coming back to the line of trees again. Everyone enjoyed the observation, but the guide and me were the most excited on this evening.

Observation from April 1st, 2018

We had spent five days with impressive and often rare observations on the western coast of Estonia. On our last day, there was still time for a last outing in the early morning before we had to leave. How great would our last observation be? Our guide wanted it to be a Western Capercaillie.

We drove on and on through Leidissoo and Läänemaa Suursoo Landscape Reserve, looking for it. The habitat met the requirements of the species: old and sparse forests with lots of shrubs. Since Western Capercaillie are very territorial, our guide knew of course where to look.

Finally, he noticed droppings of a capercaillie underneath a tree right next to the road. A capercaillie had spent the last few nights here.

We stopped and looked in every direction. Suddenly, a male Western Capercaillie appeared from the shrubs behind the second van. It held its head up high, the beak was open, the remains of berries hanging from it. The tail was spread in a fan. I thought it would quickly leave again, but it went around the van and looked at us. The very stunning bird was only two meters away from us!

Everyone took pictures. Windows were rolled down and doors slightly opened. This was by far the closest we had gotten to any bird on this vacation. The capercaillie still came closer, making those very strange and hoarse clicking sounds. Even though I was in a van, I became scared and rolled the window up again when it stood directly in front of the door. The bird was huge, and it looked both very strong and very agitated. I was afraid it might jump or fly up. It didn’t, but it also didn’t leave.

It was threatening us, going from one van to the other. When it started to peck against the tires, we decided to leave. Which was not easy, since the capercaillie wouldn’t let go and even went in front of the slowly moving van. We finally managed. By now, we were nearly as agitated as the bird had been – what a great experience at the end of a perfect birding vacation!